You are able to give the surface of the deck a more refined appearance by installing the decking boards diagonally, and it isn’t much more difficult to the joists. You’ll probably waste wood — perhaps around 15 percent more, although it makes the deck more stable. The deck framework should be square, and also the angle of these boards should stay consistent. You’re probably going to need to space the joists more closely to encourage the decking boards, which might lead to the cost of an excess joist or two.
Space the joists enough when you construct the deck framework so that the maximum length between joists is longer than it’d be when you installed the decking boards perpendicular. This may indicate decreasing the joist spacing by 2 or more inches, depending on the dimensions of the deck.
Lay the longest span, which is the one which extends from 1 corner of the deck to the opposite corner. Lay the rest of the decking in two sections, working from the center and then another. The boards, which match in the other two corners, go in last.
Make a spacer. Place it before you attach it and push the board. This maintain the angles of the decking boards uniform and will ensure consistency in the gaps between boards.
Attach the boards to the joists using 3-inch decking screws. Drive two screws lining them parallel to the joist. They should be placed approximately 3/4 inch from each edge of the board.
Butt boards together over a joist whenever you don’t have one long enough for the span. Drive two screws into each board that forms the joint’s end. It’s a fantastic idea to drill pilot holes using a drill bit for the screws to avoid splitting the wood when the screws are driven by you.
Let the boards reduce the edges of the deck flush to the joists using a circular saw whenever you have attached all the boards and hang crazy across the rim joists. This not only saves the time it would take to cut on the boards but it generates cleaner edges.